Best Boulder Problems in Fontainebleau / PART 2
Fontainebleau offers thousands and thousands of problems and sometimes the sheer amount of them makes you dizzy. You will have fun by climbing lines as they come your way but if you wish to find the most beautiful problems some planning is needed.
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Here's the PART 2 about the most beautiful routes in the magical destination of Fontainebleau. We hope this will help you to find the best lines and to get the most out of your trip!
As mentioned before, don't hesitate to jump to the discussion in the comments. There is only one truth about the beauty and the grade of a route, right? Read PART 1 here.
Cul de Chien is one of a kind area in Fontainebleau. The walk is about 15minutes and just before the climbing area you will be surrounded by a massive area filled with sand. In the middle of this is a boulder called Le Bilboquet. (Unfortunately even though tempting, it is strictly forbidden to climb this boulder.)
Most of the boulders are low and the landings are flat and sandy. This is a perfect place to spend the entire day, either climbing or just chilling in the sand.
The best routes of Cul De Chien:
Coule Douce 4+
Epreuve de force 5+, P. Viljakainen: Cool topout!
Presse Citron 6A, A. Forsberg: Scary on the top.
Le Toit du Cul de Chien 7A, F. Abrahamsson: The classicest of the classics.
Arabesque 7B+, S. Hermansen: Super beautiful roof with quite technical footwork
Eclipse 7C, M. Piccolruaz: Perhaps one of the best boulders I've ever climbed!
This area is only 5 minutes walk from the parking, but it's still rather calm. Franchard Sablons contains a big amount of great problems in the whole grade range and the boulders are mostly low with good landings.
The best routes of Fachard Sablons:
Franchard Cuisiniere is one of the legendary sectors. It was hugely popular before the road was closed to the Cuisiniere parking. Now you have to park your car to Isatis and take approximately 15 minutes walk.
The best routes of Franchard Cuisiniere:
Flux 5+, Super nice problem. Kinda sketchy catch from pocket. -- J. Blomqvist
Doigt Dans L'oiel 6A, Monos! -- T. Lindroos
La Superbe 6A+, La Superbe is the name.Pure line. Odd moves. -- U. Hyvärinen
Blocage Mental 6B, Scary mantel type top.. Mental? Yes. Goood. -- V. Pulkkinen
Tranche de Lard 6B, Superb line. Lovely arete climb. -- A. Gasic
A bras plat a bras 6C, Troubling start, cool end. -- M. Muinonen
Le Mouton 6C, Awesome sloper action. -- J. Laine
La Voie du Pin assis 6C+, Awesome block move with left on huge pinch. The sit start doesn't really add anything besides difficulty. Liked it all the way :) -- A. Haag
Pause Cafè Direct 7A, This was superb. -- O. Antikainen
Le Mur Cordier 7A, Looks and climbs nicely. -- M. Uponen
Rétrofriction 7A, Technical slab -- J. Annunen
Le Magnifique 7A+, A bit of everything, sharp crimps, small and big slopers, pure friction and of course, nice round topout! -- J. Heinonen
Pensées Cachées 7B, High but really nice climb! Stunning line and great moves what more do you want? -- A. Hodann
Miséricorde 7C+, Wow a stunning line, perfect highball with sick arete climbing. Legendary problem! -- Daniel Woods
Karma 8A+, What a sensation! I've wanted to climb this one since the first time I heard of it. THE classic line. -- Anthony Gullsten
So close, so quiet, so good. Hautes-Plaines has many classic lines and is situated just a throw away from Isatis and the rock quality is one of the best in Font. Hautes-Plaines has a huge amount of 7's and an awesome orange circuit. Don't let the color of this one fool you though! It might surprise with some tricky boulders on the way.
The best routes of Haute-Plaines:
La Corbeille 5+
Surplomb de la Coquille 6C, Classic moves on a classic boulder. -- A. Silvennoinen
Lapin ou Canard 7A, Nice roof climbing into slopy top out. -- W. Smith
Surplomb de la Coquille assis 7A, Extremely nice, even without skin. -- M. Uponen
Ah, Plus Facile! 7A+, Harder than lapin next to it but still soft -- A. Kallioniemi
Mur Lombard 7A+, Technical as fuck. -- T. Hamre
Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels 7C, A bit more technical maybe. -- M. Pelle
Franchard Isatis is an all-time favourite sector. The approach is minimal, all you need to do is park your car to the parking lot and you're there. For this reason the sector might get very crowded at times. Especially when there's a lot of people, it's good to remember the basics: park reasonably, don't shout, remember to leave no trash, and while you're at it, why not pick up other trash if you see it! :)
The sector offers gems in all grades and the circuits are top notch. Orange one is a very nice for a relaxed day or a full day adventure. The blue circuit is a nice climb through the sector, but some of the problems feel very hard for their grade. The red circuit is TD, so the grades are around 5 and it's very enjoyable. Couple of the problems are very high though and can get intimidating.
The best routes of Franchard Isatis:
Beurre Marga 6B+, Balancy tricky font style classic movement. -- K. Butters
Treenee 7A, What a gem!!! -- J. Annunen
El Poussah 7A, Vote for finest 7A in the forest? -- K. Hagert
Dune (El Poussif) 7A+, Simply one of the best in font so far. Felt harder than any of the 7b's I've done in font. -- A. Gasic
L'Angle Ben's 7A+, EPIC epic epic -- R. Morrison
Rataplat 7B, Font at it's finest. Full survival mode when reached the top "holds" the first time. -- T. Junttila
Sur-Prises 7B+, Superclassic! Had to do it twice because it was too good. -- T. Hamre
Sur-Prises Assis 7C+
Gorge aux Chat is a smallish sector at the area of Trois Pignons. There are people living just near the sector, so try to keep quiet. We know it can be super hard to keep your emotions inside you when trying hard! But still, one can try. The landings are good, except for few exceptions.
le Petit Pare Dessus 5+, Make sweet love with the rock. -- T. Lindroos
La Grève des Nains (Red #31) 6A, Hard, but very nice. -- J. Löfling
Le Campagnol 6A+
Coup de Sirocco Gauche 6B, Really fun. -- A. Throup
Travaux Forcés 6B, Leave your power behind for this one. -- P. Duke
Le Pare Dessus 7A, Has a bit of everything. Give it a go :) -- P. Duke
Sa Pelle au Logis 7A, Short but strenuous. Prepare for the last move ;) -- M. Siltaoja
Rubis sur l'Ongle 7B+, Brilliant problem on crimps -- F. Driever
On weekends, Roche aux Sabots turns into a popular pique-nique site when French families go have their walks around the paths. Besides climbing and pique-niques there are a lot of running competitions, horseback riding and mountain biking around.
From the circuits point of view the orange one offers 42 nice problems - including couple of hair-rising slabs. The blue circuit is also one of the very best circuits around the forest.
In case you're camping in Mousardiere, this sector is basically a walking distance away. As the Roche aux Sablons is very popular, it's especially important not to leave no trails of your climbing, including trash and tickmarks.
The best routes of Roch aux Sabots:
Ligne Sécante (blue #11) 3+, Slippy feet. -- S. Milbourne
Le Mur Badaboum 4+, Nice warm-up. -- Ö. Bingöl
Coup de Pompe 4+, Whaling!!! -- L. Joramo
Little Crack 5+, Fun, committing little problem. -- Dan Watson
Le Porte à Faux 5+, Easy once figured out, but very nice nonetheless. -- A. Haag
L'Auriculaire 6A, Pretty cool little roof problem. -- A. Gasic
Le Tiroir sit start 6B, Fun climbing with foot lock -- J. Fuxin
Chapeau Chinois 6B, One of the best problems at this grade. -- M. Uponen
L'Angle à Jean-Luc 6C, One of those COOL technical routes where you can't push with force. Did it twice. ;) -- P. Jokinen
Flippeur 7A, Mentally hard. Very nice one. -- M. Uponen
Le Jeu du Toit 7A, Fantastic movement, don't forget the toe. -- A. Adolfsson
Jet Set 7A, Absolute classic. -- A. Gasic
Graviton 7A, Not the hardest of 7A's in the forest. -- A. Pakarinen
Lucifer 7B, Finally, the stars were aligned correctly and my foot didn't slip! -- J. Annunen
Sale Gosse 7C, Another super classic and must-do in the forest. -- M. Pelle
That's all folks! Now it's time to send.
Comments about the list? Would you like to get route suggestions from some other climbing destination? Comment below!
Text by Hanna Vartia, who's working as a marketing manager @27 Crags and prefers her rock 5 meters high.
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