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Best Boulder Problems in Magic Wood, Switzerland

Best Boulder Problems in Magic Wood, Switzerland

Magic Wood, while beautiful, famous, and covered in exceptional rock, is also quite confusing and overwhelming for first timers. Boulders twist and turn around ever forest corner, some up steep hills, while others are in caves, or even on the river.

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The high quality gneiss rock lends itself to a plethora of crimping boulders and has a remarkable concentration of boulders for such a condensed geographical area. 

The setting, while comparable to Squamish and parts of Zillertal, is for the most part unlike any place you’ve ever climbed. There are wet roots and moss covering the forest floor as you walk through a world of green.

While 27 Crags topos and some nice locals will help you navigate the forest, in the mean time, here is a list of some of the best boulder problems that are not to be missed when visiting.

 Happy climbing!

  Spankstick 6B.  Photo: Hanne Erika Riise

Spankstick 6B. Photo: Hanne Erika Riise

  • 5 Wonderboy - A. Gasic: “Even thought easy, one of the must routes in the area.”
  • 6A+ Blue Sky of Mine - P. Orr: “Cool highball. A very fun problem!”
  • 6B  Superhorny - D. Hart: "Exposed and fun"
  • 6B Die Schöne 
  • 6B Spankstick - Rather high but really pleasant line. 
  • 6B Altersheimsitstart J. Bäckström: “Maybe harder for the short climber”
  • 6B+ Merlin - Nice powerful line
  • 6B+ Seven of Nine - "A. Haag: Grade depends a bit on start. Nice dynamic move afterwards."

 

 Crimp 'n Focus. Hanna Vartia on  Angelina Jolie 6B+  . Photo: Olga Viekzorek

Crimp 'n Focus. Hanna Vartia on Angelina Jolie 6B+ . Photo: Olga Viekzorek

 

  • 6C Jenny - R. J: "Really nice sequence. Worth doing if you're in the area."
  • 6C Big CheeseA. Gasic: Felt hard at first, but with right beta felt bit easy.
  • 6C U-boot - J. Blomqvist: "Beautiful climb. You can really flow through it. PUMPED."
  • 6C Beach Mantle -  A. Fallden: Superb!
  • 6C Beach arete - Long moves and round holds. R. Malloy: “Good movement, good variety of holds, a bit of spice. Great problem!”
  • 6C+ Freiwild - E. Silvennoinen: "Like indoor climbing"

 

 

 

  • 7A Slip slap slopA. Gasic: “Finally! Felt so hard again, but I was able to lock all the way to the crack from the sloper.”
  • 7A Chiquita - A. Perschmann: ”Tricky. 4 Kneehooks and some other Hooks”
  • 7A Zilliman - N. Lamminmäki: Nice! Clear line with powerful moves!
  • 7A Mörderballett - H. Liukkonen: “A bit scary until you know what to do.”
  • 7A Enterprise - Great arete problem. Worth the hike up and good to take few pads.
  • 7A Linserboulder - J. Blomqvist: "Great compression climb, a bit scary with one pad and no spotters."
  • 7A Marihuanacorner - J. Wade: "This problem has it all! And finishes with an exciting mantle.."
  • 7A+ Red Roses - K. Wildrick: "Classic! After many times failing because of a slipping left foot, it felt easy when I switched to flat gym shoes."
  • 7A+ Mörderballett - J. Blomqvist: “So scared but so good. Worth the hike.”
  • 7A+ King Kong - K. Wildrick: “Great compression problem with one long move. The name says it all”
  • 7A+ Tricky - M. Uponen: “Just perfect! sensitive footwork, balance and horror mantel! Def. worth it! :)”
 Mikael Uponen on Grit de luxe direct 7C

Mikael Uponen on Grit de luxe direct 7C

  • 7B Morgenlatte - Very powerful!
  • 7B Dinos don’t dyno - S. Hochbaum: "Perfect jump from perfect holds to a perfect jug"
  • 7B Blown Away - M. Piccolruaz: "this boulder is just so amazing. scary top out =)"
  • 7B Blindfisch - F. Henke: “Really technical if the grade is your limit. Very nice movements!”
  • 7B Grit de Luxe Kalle - K. Mustonen: “For me it has always been the line of magic wood so i'm happy to send it :)”
  • 7B+ Goldfisch - J. Stiefelreiter: “morpho”
  • 7B+ Höhenrausch - A. Perschmann: “One of the best!”
  • 7B+ Sündenfall
  • 7B+ Samurai Tango
  The wizard 7C,  Photo: Jonathan Linné Ryn

The wizard 7C, Photo: Jonathan Linné Ryn

  • 7C Intermezzo - A. Ryan: "One of the only dry boulders in the Wood. Cool crimp fest”
  • 7C Jack the chipper - Courtney Sanders: “Nice line! a little powerful on small flat crimps to a big pop move to a flat pinch!”
  • 7C Super Nova - S. Hermansen. "The best problem I have ever climbed - matching the last hold was quite hard for me until I found a little pinch on the nose."
  • 7C Rythmo - I. Kelloniemi: Pogo jump! liked this so much!
  • 7C  Schneebrett - S. Hochbaum: “one of the best 7c I`ve ever climbed. Perfect crimps and powerful climbing.”
  • 7C+ Piranja - M. Pelle: “3rd go of the day after some tries in a previous session months before. Wonderful movement"
  • 7C+ Down Under - C. Rauch: “Felt not so easy. One really greasy crimp but nice line and nice moves”
  • 7C+  Schnee strum - C. Rauch: “Really cool crimper line. I`ll be back for the real line”
 O-P Saxell on  Marihuana corner 7A . Photo: Marko Kauko

O-P Saxell on Marihuana corner 7A. Photo: Marko Kauko

  • 8A Octopussy - M. Geiger: “Beautiful Athletic Problem!”
  • 8A Unendliche Geschichte 2 - S. Hochbaum: “Classic. One of the best boulderproblems I ever did!"
  • 8A Nothing Changes - F. Driever: “Cool boulder which climbs surprisingly well once you figure out the best grip position ;)”
  • 8A Sofa Surfer  - Paul Robinson: “Nice slopes to a very very bad foot hold,glad it stayed.”
  • 8A Astronautenfieber - Daniel Woods: “Huge arete, very crimpy and tall! finish hold is a tree.”
  • 8A  From the Darkness to the Sunshine - Michael Piccolruaz: “started on the jug! climbs much better than it looks like.”started on the jug! climbs much better than it looks like.
  • 8A+ Left Hand of Darkness - J. Linkosuonio: “Really cool! Much nicer than right version. In one session and same day as Nothing Changes.”
  • 8A+ Jack’s Broken Heart - Anthony Gullsten says, “Really nice line. Fell twice on the topjugs... Tried it again with better friction and did it easily.”
  • 8A+ Bodycount -  Nils Favre: "Soft but really nice!"
  • 8A+ Electric Boogie - C. Rauch: “One of the best! This pinch is just amazing! ;)”

 

See the full info on Magic Wood and all the routes below!


Text by Alexandra Kahn

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