Kid's rule in Magic Wood — 27 Crags

Jan 3 2014

Jan 3 Kid's rule in Magic Wood

As summer hit most of bouldering areas, hardcore boulderers move on seeking for cooler temps and that they find among others, most of them in southern hemisphere, in Magic Wood. The area is well known among the climbing network and every year, many visitors pay a visit so they can enjoy the coolness in the woods.

This year, there has been a very high concentration of super strong young climbers.
Robyn Erbesfield came down with her kids, Shawn (15) and Brooke (12), already known for some remarkable achievements at the youngest age.

For their first time, they enjoyed some classics and climbed several v11’s. Brooke sent “From Darkness to Sunshine” and “Snee Sturm” both v11, and later on, so did her mother, which makes her I guess one of the fewest female sending such a grade at an age of 50.
After some efforts, Brooke was also able to tick off “Pura Vida” V12, which could be some kind of record as some have considered this one as V13.

Shawn, who had recently grabbed a second place in one of the European youth bouldering cup, took some advantages with the gym-like style, which allows rather quick sends. He sent on his first day “Right hand of Darkness, v11”, quickly managed the next day “The never ending story part2, v11” and later, completed also the first part, which is v12.

Among them, some others have joined, notably Ashima Shiraishi and Mirko Caballero. After having spent some time in Ceuse, the made both the move and swap to bouldering.
Ashima, who is already known for being one the strongest female climbers in the world, counting already a couple of V13’s in her bundle, manages a one day ascent of “Pura Vida, V12” and a couple of days later, was able to dispatch the whole line known as “One summer in paradise” hitting the V13 grade.

Mirko, on the other hand, also sent the first part of the never ending story and after some time, was also able to send "One summer in Paradise", his first V13.

Earlier this month, Michael Piccolruaz (17) reported having sent “Dark Sakai” v13 and a bunch of v11 and v12’s.

Some of the strongest young Swiss boulderers also came down to benefit the conditions, which by the way, have been quite hot this year, although some cooler places could still be found whereas the rest of the area requested so patience to offer ok conditions.

Samuel Ometz (17) sent several V13 and V12’s with some classics such as ‘’Riverbed’’ and “Dark Sakai” both V13 and “Pura Vida”, “Voigas” or “High Spirit” all V12.

Samuels’s brother, Baptiste, aged 15, who’s the one standing before Shawn on the podium of last European bouldering series in L’argentiere (FRA), and also, maybe the youngest person ever to send v13 at 11, managed on his first day to sent four v11’s, among which “Astronautenfieber”, “Nothing Changes”, or “Unendliche Geschichte pt2”.

Got inspired? Discover all the Magic Wood topos here!